Exploring the Cinnamon Country

Phoebe Oliver recounts the story of a memorable bike trip to Sri Lanka

Exploring the Heart of Sri Lanka: A Four-Day Trail Bike Adventure with Idle Bikes 

 

Our recent bike tour in Sri Lanka with Idle Bikes was a remarkable four-day adventure, blending the thrill of cycling with the serene beauty of the island and immersive cultural experiences. This journey was particularly special as it brought together my three daughters, aged 27, 20, and 15, along with my eldest daughter's boyfriend, offering us a rare opportunity to reconnect as a family in a breathtaking setting, free from the distractions of technology and work. Over these incredible four days, we enjoyed each other's company, laughed at my youngest daughter's failed efforts to master the gears, and marvelled at the incredible off the beaten track nature that Sri Lanka provides. We also focused on nature, marvelled at the incredible bird life, nodded a good morning to many a buffalo and immersed ourselves in the lesser-known areas of Sri Lanka, creating unforgettable memories together.

 

Our two hotels, Tri and Malabar Hill, added significantly to our experience with their contrasting architectures and incredible settings. Tri , with its clean lines and nature-inspired design, evolved through aesthetic passion and fortified by a sustainable philosophy, stands as a masterpiece of forward-thinking architectural flair. As nature lovers the incredible view of the lake and feeling of being immersed in nature made our stay truly special. On the other hand, Malabar Hill offered a different charm with its Eastern and Rajasthani inspired architecture and Middle Eastern furnishings meeting Sri Lankan craftsmanship and natural materials. The Hill House, an imposing restaurant pavilion, provided us with stunning 240° views of tropical treetops and down to the sea, enhancing our sense of immersion in the natural beauty of the surroundings.

 

Day 1: 5am from Idle Bikes Headquarters to Tri Lanka

 

Our journey began at the Idle Bikes headquarters, just outside Galle, where we met Alex shortly after first light in the cool of the morning and prepared for the first leg of our tour along the Kurundu Trail. Truth be known, I hadn’t ridden a bike in years, so slightly unsteadily I rode out of the headquarters but quickly got the hang of it—mainly assisted by the electric capacity – a true revelation. The start of our journey took us past the historic Mihiripenna Temple with its ancient architecture, a brief but enchanting sight before we made our way into the lush Eluwila Bird Sanctuary. This sanctuary was alive with early morning vibrant wildlife, and we couldn't help but pause to admire the painted storks, white egrets, and the occasional bright blue kingfisher darting through the trees.

 

The ride continued as we crossed over old Dutch canals, their weathered stonework a reminder of the island's colonial past. Soon, we found ourselves amidst the expansive paddy fields, known locally as 'mahawella'. The greenery stretched as far as the eye could see, punctuated by the occasional black buffalo lazily grazing in the distance, raising its head in gentle recognition of these strange beings on two wheels.

 

A well-deserved break awaited us at an Ambalama, a traditional resting place overlooking the paddy fields near Yatagala Temple. The temple, with its impressive 9-meter reclining Buddha and the ancient 2,300-year-old Bo tree, provided a tranquil backdrop as we sipped on our king coconut and devoured the fresh fruits. The ambiance was perfect for a moment of reflection and appreciation of the natural beauty surrounding us.

 

Rejuvenated, we mounted our bikes once more and continued east through the paddy fields in Meepe. The path led us towards Koggala Lake, one of the largest natural lakes in Sri Lanka, spanning approximately 5 km by 2 km and dotted with eight islands. The lake's history includes a period of turmoil during the Second World War when the nearby Koggala Air Base saw seaplanes skim its surface as part of the British Royal Air Force operations. This base played a crucial, albeit quiet, role in wartime activities, contrasting with the peaceful aura that the lake exudes today. Cycling around the northern shore of the lake, we stopped on a bridge to take in the incredible view and closed our eyes to listen to the birds around us.

 

After a couple more kilometres cycling through fields of cinnamon we reached Tri Lanka, situated on the eastern side of the lake. After checking in, we enjoyed breakfast in the shade of a banyan tree, a perfect start to our stay. We then indulged in soothing massages at the spa to relieve our tired muscles. The afternoon was spent relaxing by the pool, with breaks only for lunch and delicious mid-afternoon cocktails (which we felt we deserved). The evening was tranquil, reflecting on the highlights of our ride and enjoying the stunning views of the lake as the sun set, with soft melodic tunes playing in the bar, painting the sky with hues of orange and pink.

The architecture of TRI is incredible—Sri Lanka’s first truly contemporary, sustainable luxury design hotel, combining clean lines and contemporary natural architecture with soft furnishings and a bar atmosphere reminiscent of old-school chilled Ibiza. The cantilevered roof of the living area is designed to eliminate the need for the usual three side walls, allowing the space to be fully open to light, air flow, and views, in line with Geoffrey Bawa's philosophy of minimal barriers to the natural world. A few guests out on the lake have described looking back at the hotel, especially the profile of the living room, as a James Bond baddy's lair, enhancing its aura of mystery and sophistication – shaken not stirred.

Recently, TRI has been completely refurbished with four new sunset-facing rooms and new facilities like its rooftop lounge, making it the ideal halfway house for our adventure.

 

Day 2: Exploring Koggala Lake

 

The second day began with a hearty breakfast at Tri Lanka, followed by a morning of island hopping around Koggala Lake with the wonderful boat master Douglas. We visited several islands, including the famous Cinnamon Island, where we learned from three generations of cinnamon makers. Their stories and expertise gave us a deep appreciation for this aromatic spice and its significance in Sri Lankan culture.

Continuing the spice conversation back at Tri, we noticed how cinnamon wove seamlessly into every segment of the hotel (unsurprising due to its location in the middle of Sri Lanka's cinnamon heartlands): from the cinnamon tea served, the locally sourced cinnamon body wash, the on-site cinnamon plantations to the cinnamon screening on the sides of the villas to help them dissolve into the landscape. We also visited the cinnamon clad water tower, offering guests a panoramic view of the lake. This subtle yet pervasive presence of cinnamon added a unique and comforting layer to our experience, making our stay at Tri even more memorable.  

We spent the afternoon exploring the lush gardens, spotting butterfly’s and monitor lizards lazing in the sun and relaxing by the lake. Nancy, my 20-year-old, kept challenging all of us to underwater races in the 21-meter-long infinity pool and the day concluded with a delicious dinner, prepared with fresh local ingredients. The serene environment of Tri Lanka offered the perfect setting to unwind and prepare us for next day’s ride.

 

Day 3: From Tri Lanka to Malabar Hill

 

On the third day, we mounted our bikes early for the final stretch of our journey. The trails we followed were mostly traffic-free, offering a smooth ride with only a few hills along the way. The flat terrain made for an easy and enjoyable cycling experience. My daughter’s boyfriend (a footballer in the UK) kept his fitness up by racing us to the next stop. Various dogs also joined us for certain sections before sensibly retreating to the shade as the day's heat crept in. This section of the trail goes through Ahangama – often referred to as the 'up and coming hipster surf town' 

 

After passing the lily filled Borala Lake we reached our destination wasMalabar Hill, where we were greeted with a refreshing cold iced tea and cold towel. Our lunch, overlooking the forests, was fresh and delicious and in the afternoon, we planted a tree to commemorate our stay and my 50th birthday—a meaningful gesture that symbolised our connection to Sri Lanka and to the nature we had ridden through. Josh, my eldest daughter's boyfriend, chose to continue his quest for ultimate fitness by spending 8 hours in the saddle that day accompanied by the smiling guide who joined him. His commitment provided us all with some amusement as we chose to relax by the pool and sample the incredible cocktails.

 

Day 4: Foraging and Cooking at Malabar Hill

 

The fourth day began with an early rise and a visit to the local fish market, where we selected fresh fish to learn to cook back at the hotel. Once back at Malabar, we foraged in the gardens, gathering fresh ingredients to compliment the cooking course. This hands-on experience introduced us to the rich and diverse flavors of Sri Lankan cuisine and under the guidance of the onsite chef, we learned to prepare a traditional sri lankan fish dish.

 

After dining on our homemade creation, we spent the afternoon exploring routes around the beautiful 33 acres of that is Malabar Hill. The day concluded with a relaxing evening game of cards by the pool, enjoying the serene ambiance of the hilltop retreat.

 

Our four-day adventure with Alex from Idle Bikes had been an unforgettable journey, blending the thrill of cycling with the serene beauty of Sri Lanka. The Kurundu Trail had offered us more than just a ride; it had given us a glimpse into the heart of Sri Lanka's rich heritage and breathtaking landscapes, while providing precious moments of family reconnection.